Types of gold watches
Although gold is naturally a yellow-toned metal, there are other hues available, including white and rose. The latter is sometimes referred to as “honey”, “pink” or “red”, depending on the brand—Omega uses its own gold alloy called “Sedna” gold, for example.
While yellow gold is natural, white and rose gold are not naturally occurring. The former is made by combining gold with white metals such as palladium or nickel, whereas rose gold usually gets its colour from copper—a red-toned metal.
The different karats
Although 24k gold is the purist form available, you won’t find a 24k gold watch because it’s too soft and prone to damage and scratches. Therefore, the finest contemporary gold watches are made from an 18k gold alloy which is 75% pure gold.
The cheapest gold watches are often steel with gold plating. In the past, brands have also used 9k and 14k gold, although their use in watchmaking tends to be on the decline thanks to snobbery around their lack of purity. However, both 14k and 9k are still gold—even 18k gold isn’t 100% solid gold but an alloy. Besides, 14k is the most durable of all the alloys due to its 58.3% gold content, meaning it hits a balance that optimises its scratch resistance.
Interestingly, 14k gold was the highest-purity gold legally allowed in America between 1934 and 1974, contributing to its prevalence in the vintage watch market. It wasn’t until the mid-1970s that 18k gold was allowed to be sold there, meaning it’s since overtaken 14k gold in the high-end market, especially as watchmakers like Rolex continue to use 18k gold exclusively.
A brief history of gold watches
Before wristwatches, pocket watches were the norm and early versions of pocket watches often featured cases made in gold or silver with cheaper options made in steel or brass—much like cheaper jewellery available on the market today.
Although some watch brands supply cheaper options made of steel with a gold coating, leading watchmakers use 18k gold for their most prestigious collections. Patek Philippe’s Calatrava series, for example, is predominantly made in precious metals including platinum, as well as gold.
In the 1960s, Rolex began making gold versions of its classic steel tool watches, the Submariner and Daytona. The same can be said for sport luxe watches such as Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, which started off exclusively in steel. Now, gold versions of these watches are some of the most expensive and desirable around. Both models caused controversy upon their release in the 1970s, thanks to their steep price tags that matched those of watches made from precious metals, despite being steel.
Gold watches today
Thanks to the demand for these high-end pieces, big-name watchmakers such as Rolex are making more and more of their watches in gold. If you’re tempted to invest in a gold watch, the good news is they generally hold their value better than their steel counterparts, thanks to the intrinsic value of gold and its timeless appeal. It also helps that gold timepieces have enjoyed a resurgence in recent years.
Classic gold models
Rolex Day-Date
The Day-Date is at the upper echelon of Rolex’s lineup so it’s hardly surprising that it’s only ever made in precious metals. Naturally, the Day-Date has become a favourite of the world’s elite including former US Presidents like Lyndon B. Johnson. The yellow-gold model in particular has become a symbol of status and wealth, featuring on the wrists of several iconic TV and film characters over the years, including on-screen mob boss, Tony Soprano (James Gandolfini) in The Sopranos.
Patek Philippe Calatrava
The Calatrava is a legendary timepiece and one of Patek Philippe’s most popular offerings. Inspired by the minimalist Bauhaus movement from the early 20th century, the Calatrava is celebrated for its refined lines and classic round case. Unlike Patek Philippe’s other hugely popular models such as the Nautilus and the Aquanaut, the Calatrava is mostly made in precious metals including yellow, rose and white gold, plus platinum.
Rolex Submariner
Although it’s a sporty dive watch, the Submariner comes in more prestigious forms, including models in precious metals and those adorned with diamonds. The white-gold reference 126619LB with its blue bezel and black dial and the sought-after “Smurf”, reference 116619LB, in white gold with its blue bezel and dial are hugely popular models. Both could be mistaken for steel models, making them classic stealth-wealth Rolexes.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Starting life as a steel watch, the Royal Oak was one of the first-ever luxury sports watches, as designed by the legendary, Gerald Genta. Today, it’s available in a variety of different materials and styles, including precious metals. The gold editions of this model are some of Audemars Piguet’s most desirable timepieces, understandably so, considering the Royal Oak is the brand’s flagship model.
Celebrity wearers of gold watches
Considering high-quality gold watches can be some of the most expensive timepieces around, it’s hardly surprising that they are popular with celebrities. Renowned watch collector and actor, Mark Wahlberg, is one of those who has a few watches to his name, including the striking yellow-gold and blue Submariner 116618LB. While DJ and record producer, Mark Ronson, has opted for a slick yellow-gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak with a matching gold dial.
Awards season is always prime watch spotting territory. Some of our recent favourites include actor, Andrew Garfield and his pink-gold Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds, which he wore at the 2025 Golden Globes. We also love the frosted white-gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini which was spotted on the wrist of British singer, Raye, at the 2025 Oscars.